Hurricane Erin: Full Swell Report Last week's zine was short with just a big raw edit of all the Hurricane Erin surfing content because I was coaching through the entire swell, then went straight into prep for this intensive. Here's the play-by-play of my read of the swell. Hurricane Erin was getting hyped while I was still in Costa Rica. People were texting me about it. I had some messaging in the previous zine about how that stress was getting to me, so I decided: only zine subscribers are...
18 days ago • 12 min read
Hurricane Erin: Full Swell Report Last week's zine was short with just a big raw edit of all the Hurricane Erin surfing content because I was coaching through the entire swell, then went straight into prep for this intensive. Here's the play-by-play of my read of the swell. Hurricane Erin was getting hyped while I was still in Costa Rica. People were texting me about it. I had some messaging in the previous zine about how that stress was getting to me, so I decided: only zine subscribers are...
19 days ago • 12 min read
In the middle of the Hurricane Erin bender. I’m not going to lie to you. I haven’t “worked” on the zine all week unless you mean by “work” that I surfed and coached my brains out, then yes. It’s 430p on Friday, August 22nd. The sun is blaring in my office window from the west. I’m in NY. I surfed Matunuck in RI first thing this morning and then tried to hustle down in hopes of offshore winds all day. No luck there. There’s a SW bump on it now. Still plenty of swell in the water. Nevertheless,...
26 days ago • 5 min read
Here's a video from one of my last surfs at Playa Dominical. This week I’m going to share with you some key lessons learned during our last week in Costa Rica. One: La Parcela Non-surf Partner Unlock La Parcela is the restaurant that overlooks the Point and Dominicalito. It opens at 11a so this protocol is only for midday and afternoon surfs. If your partner doesn’t surf, first drop them (and your dog if you have one) off at La Parcela. They can have vegetable and fruit juices, smoothies,...
about 1 month ago • 17 min read
Joyce Lu is a dual MD/PhD student nearing the completion of her education at Rutgers. Her anthropological PhD work focuses on antibiotic resistance in rural communities in Central and South America. She’s finished with her course work for both her degrees, but still needs to defend her dissertation and complete her rotations. She’s also staying at the clubhouse this summer, hoping that she doesn’t get assigned a TA job for the fall, so that she can just enjoy the writing fellowship she won...
about 1 month ago • 6 min read
No AI was used in this zine. Just me, Hannah, and the waves of past and future. Surfing as “essay” — trial, attempt — peira, piratical, empiricism. To go out onto the sea as a quest to experience. To experience what? As much as I do not “believe in freedom”, the quest is to experience what we think we mean when we say, “freedom.” An attempt to define what we mean by freedom causes my mind to stop working. My thoughts end in a choke point. There is at least the fact that whatever the case I...
about 2 months ago • 21 min read
The Man in the Grey Suit. Shark Week I survived the wedding on Cape Cod. No sharks attacked me. No cars on I-95 ran into me (correction from last time when I think my Californian brain wrote "I-5" instead of "I-95"), nor did I fall asleep at the wheel. I managed to avoid small talk with people I'll never see or meet again, many of whom I must say were quite well dressed. The couple who were married are named Anthony Cappo and Ashley Hager. Ashley's parents live on the Cape, and she loves it...
about 2 months ago • 23 min read
Not pictured: me getting all of this stuff down there and back to the van. Eternal Recurrence Of Xalepa Ta Kala Table of Contents: • Intro • Dion's Personal Weekly Journal • Podcast Roundup • Claude's Analyses of "Aristotle's" Whoop Data and Food Costs • Last Lines Intro This week I am returning again to a red thread of these zines and my approach to coaching: xalepa ta kala. In my signatures I alternate between this and "more waves more joy". For those who used to participate in book club,...
2 months ago • 30 min read
In the story below I did leave out how T Rock and Pita have transformed my approach. Here's me with tiny T circa 2017. The "End" of the Story Which Is Still A Work In Progress Where we left off: I kept writing the fashion dissertation, and my essential thesis was that the ways we fashion ourselves—the kinds of people we're being through our clothing choices—was deeply ontological and that whatever fashion is has everything to do with what sex and gender are. This led me to develop a theory...
2 months ago • 19 min read